A little while ago I shared a sneak peek of some Sunday Sewing on Facebook. The project? This adorable little playsuit I made for Penny. The polka dot and mint combination reminded me of mint chip ice cream and made me crave it.
Since it’s fall and the weather is getting a little cooler I like cozy clothes for my kids, I love playsuits, or jumpers, rompers, or whatever it is that you want to call it. Only thing I don’t like about them? I hate snaps at the crotch, I know I know I may be alone in this, for babies I don’t mind so much, they sit still during dipper changes (or at least more still than a toddler) they also go through 20 diaper changes a day it seems so having easy access makes sense. For toddlers/walkers however I hate them. I feel like my kids are always busting through the snaps as they bend and move, and lining up all those snaps during a diaper change? Forget about it. At least my kids are always so squirmy they just want to be done and go. Then kids get to the potty training age and I hate playsuits again. How are they supposed to get in and out of them? So for this little window of time, I decided to design a playsuit that I love.
Long pants, a top bodice inspired by the Maggie Mae which I love. A combination of knit and woven fabrics. The gathered and loose front accommodate the baby belly.
And a nice exposed zipper down the back. It makes dressing (even diaper changes) easy and I love the look. The back and crotch are fitted so that it doesn’t look sloppy.
So I made the free PDF pattern to share. It’s roughly a 12-18m size. Penny is 20 months although she is fairly petit, she still wears mostly 12-18m stuff although the length is almost in line with a 2T.
Penny’s height from top of shoulder to crotch is 16.5″ so if your child is longer or shorter you will want to adjust the pattern so that it fits.
You will need:
1/4 yard woven fabric for the top
3/4 yard knit fabric for bottom (heavy knit french terry fabric was used for both of these)
1 7-9″ zipper
The pictures are going to bounce between the two that I made since I changed how I lined the bodice for the second one, since it was easier to sew.
To start. With right sides together sew two back A pieces to one front A piece at the shoulders. Repeat for the lining. Press the shoulder seam for both open flat. Then with right sides together sew the bodice and lining together along the sleeve edge, and along the neckline. Clip the curve.
Turn the bodice right side out and press well.
With right sides together sew the back A pieces to Back B pieces. (the upper bodice is shown differently ignore that)
For the front with right sides together sew the front B pieces together along the curve starting at the top ending at the point of the crotch.
Run a basting stitch along the top edge. Pull to gather.
Then with right sides together sew the gathered edge to the curved bodice edge of the front bodice A.
Now for the zipper. A pattern piece that is not part of the pattern but something I added to both playsuits was a zipper guard. I didn’t want the metal of the zipper to rub her back all day. So I cut a rectangle folded in half that was roughly the same size as the zipper. I folded the top and bottom edges under so they were finished edges.
Then place the zipper right sides together with the back. The raw edge of the zipper will match the raw edge of the back. Fold the top of the zipper down as well since the top neckline is already finished.
Place the zipper guard down on top so the raw edge matches the raw edges. Sew along the zipper as close to the teeth as possible. Stop where the zipper teeth end. (where the metal stopper is so before the bottom edge.)
Then with right sides together sew the other side of the zipper to the other side of the back. Make sure the seam from the top and bottom match going across and that the zipper matches at the top and bottom. Then sew as close to the teeth again stopping at the metal stopper. Finish seams as desired.
Match the back up right sides together. Sew the bottom B pieces together from as close to the zipper stopper down to the crotch point.
Then press it flat. top stitch around the zipper. You want to sew across the zipper shield along the bottom to secure the flap, but be careful NOT to catch the shield when you sew up the other side, you still want the zipper to open.
Then you will have a perfect little zipper with a shield that protects the metal from your child’s back.
Then with the front and back right sides together sew from the underarm and all the way down the leg. Repeat with the other side.
Lastly sew the inside leg. Do this by sewing up one leg and down the other. IF you want a snap crotch you can add a facing and snaps. Lastly hem the legs by turning them under and sewing and you are done.
The perfect little play suit. And since the bottom is knit is nice and cozy for the fall weather. I did leave the top with short sleeves so it could be layered with a cardigan on cooler days or worn without on what is often warmer weather.
Either way Penny is a fan, and I am glad I have two soon to be a few more.
Mint french terry is from Mood (although they are currently sold out)
Polka Dot is a cotton from Joann Fabric (always in stock in their stores)
The Jewel fabric is a french terry from Britex purchased in their San Francisco store.
Chambray was something I found scraps of in my stash and I don’t recall where it was from.