Sewing 101 || Welt Pockets || Shwin&Shwin

Welt Pockets || Sewing 101 || Shwin&Shwin

If you are looking for the faux welt pocket tutorial, sorry it’s been re-done. The steps are all the same, I just decided to update the tutorial so they are fully functional welt pockets, but if you want faux welt pockets just sew them closed 🙂

I really love welt pockets, they are maybe one of my favorites to sew, so satisfying when they they turn out and once you master them they turn out beautiful each time. So let’s dive right in.

You first need to cut a pocket lining/facing. I did this as all one piece, you can do two separate pieces for the lining and facing, or possibly a pattern you are following will have it as two pieces. So take your facing piece. (the part that will show as the pocket) Draw your pocket opening, you want it at least 1″ from the top edge and 1″ from either side. The pocket width can be as wide as you want the pocket and the height can be what you want as well, I usually do around .5″ but it depends on how you want the finished pocket to look like. So draw the rectangle on to the WRONG side of the pocket facing.

Match up right sides together, the facing and the fabric where you want the pocket to be. This can be any angle or direction. You want the long end of the facing to be facing toward the direction the hand will go in the pocket. So here the long edge is down towards the bottom. In a jacket with a sideways pocket it will go towards the front of the jacket.

Sew along the rectangle that was drawn on. Be careful to sew straight around the opening don’t overstitch at any corners.

Then cut a slit down the middle of the rectangle and diagonally into the corners.

Push the facing through the opening to turn it to the back side.

Press well so the corners are all sharp and the opening is pressed well.

Bring the bottom of the pocket facing up, so it’s folded at the bottom edge of the sewn opening. Press well.

Then fold the facing back down so the fold line is at the top of the pocket opening creating a pleat that just covers the pocket opening. Press well.

Flip around to the front side, sew in the “ditch” or along the bottom seam line and then up the side edge and across the top edge, back down the other side. Be sure to not catch the top of the folded facing when sewing along the opening.

Here is what that looks like from the back. Sewn through the front and facing, but with an opening at the top.

Here is where you could/would attach the pocket lining, or sew the pocket closed if you are doing a faux pocket. We will be folding up the bottom edge of the facing so it meets up with the top edge. Only sew through the pocket facing not through the front piece.

Finish the top and side seams.

There you have it a welt pocket.

Ready to try a pattern with welt pockets??

Kate

January 9, 2012 at 7:46 pm

Oh my goodness, brilliant! For pockets on my pants too! I wanted to make a pair of denim cutoff this year and this would be perfect!!
Tara

January 9, 2012 at 7:51 pm

I was just recently wondering how to make welt pockets!
liZ evans

January 9, 2012 at 11:50 pm

Super cute! liZ (simplesimonandco)
Caroline

January 10, 2012 at 10:31 am

Great tutorial – thanks…
katerinka

January 10, 2012 at 10:05 pm

Way! Thanks!
Rachel

January 19, 2012 at 3:41 pm

OH MY GOODNESS!!! Those are fabulous, FABulous, FABULOUS!!!!!!! This is exactly what I have been looking for.
Post-it Note

April 11, 2012 at 7:55 pm

I can't believe there are only 6 lovely comments so far! I stared all night at the ceiling wondering how I could do these pockets and now what do I happen upon? Your amazing blog, and the name for those pockets in my mind, and if that's not enough how to do them. Swoon. I think you guys are top notch. love, paige
Post-it Note

April 13, 2012 at 4:02 am

I made them! I'm so excited and proud of myself, I texted pictures of welt pockets to my mommy today. I just wanted to let you know they worked out. At first I was really confused that you push the rectangle inside but I finally figured it out and now it seems easy. Thanks again. -Paige
Boyfriend Morris | What Katie Sews

May 4, 2015 at 6:28 am

[…] it, I felt like the larger expanse of front needed to be broken up by some pockets, so I used this tutorial to add some mini welts. They’re a bit tiny to actually hold my hands, but at least they hold […]
DIY Halloween | Tyler the Creator's IGOR - Seams Rhymes and Life

November 6, 2019 at 2:56 pm

[…] I was stubborn about having welt pockets on the blazer, which I think you can forgo (if you have on all the other accessories and have the bright colored suit, I think folks won’t mind that you do not have welt pockets.) If you are like me and like to make more trouble for yourself on the DIY front, there are plenty of tutorials on welt pockets on the interwebs. I am fond of Shwin and Shwin’s tutorial. […]