Time for another installment of
Inspired by the runway
Photo credit Barbara Nitke/Lifetime
The looks above were the top two looks. And my favorites from the military lace line in the team challenge. I will be making a pant inspired by the white pant. But for now I made a design for a A-line military top with lace puff sleeves.
Do you love the tough yet girly look? I made this top for my daughter but you can make this in any size you want, just follow the directions adjusting the sizes when you need to. (The top is super easy so the adjustment will be easy to do)
What you will need:
- Fabric (I like stretch poplin for this top, but use what you like)
- Snaps (they come in a little kit at your fabric stores)
- One well fitting shirt to pattern off of
Step 1: Start by cutting out your pieces. On a fold put a well fitting shirt half way on the fold. Tuck in the sleeve so you can follow the arm hole line. (as seen above) Depending on how the top fits you may want to add length to the top you will be making, or add width. Cut out two, both on the fold.
Step 2: Measure the length from the top of the shoulder to the bottom of the arm hole. Multiply by 6. This will be how long your strips for lace should be. The width will depend on how wide you want them to be on your shoulder. The width will be folded over so keep that in mind when you are deciding the width. You will cut to strips with those measurements. (one for each arm) You then need 2 “U” shaped pieces that will be the lining for the neck hole. Directions on how to cut that are below. You will also need two rectangles that will serve as the strips across the chest, and should be cut however long and wide you want the strips. I like to center them on the chest of the shirt and wanted them to be about 1 inch finished so they started 5 inches by 2 inches. You will also cut two smaller rectangles to serve as the faux pockets.
Step 2a: To cut the “U” shape for the neck (you will cut two of them) follow the same opening as the neck and about 1 1/2 inches- 2 inches thick up at the shoulder you will just follow the line and end up with a “U” shaped piece that should fit inside the neck opening like pictured above.
Step 3: Sew right sides together at shoulders. Do this for both the top and the collar lining.
(sorry about the pucker I had moved on to the next step)
Step 4: Sew right sides together around the neckline.
Step 5: Turn collar lining around to the inside and top stitch both around the neck opening and top stitch the lining in place. As pictured above.
Step 6: Take your longer rectangles and sew under all the edges so you have two finished strips.
Step 7: Pin the strips on the top where you want them to be (centered typically)
Step 8: The snaps. Your snap kit should have two pieces for the front of the snap and two pieces for the back. We will only be using the fronts as these will be face snaps. Take the front piece with the tacks sticking out of them as pictured above and press it through the strip and shirt. Make sure you keep the strip straight on the shirt. You should poke the snap all the way though so you see it poking out on the other side as pictured above.
Step 9: Take the back part of the snap and place it groove side down so it lines up with the snap poking through then hammer into place.
Step 10: Follow step 9 4 times until you have attached the strips down on both sides. Make sure as you put the snaps on that you don’t pull too much but you want the strips to lay flat against the shirt.
Step 11: The faux pockets. Folding under the edges of the smaller rectangle place, sew sides and bottom of the rectangle down to the shirt. Place them at a slight angle and make sure the pockets mirror each other across the shirt.
Step 12: Sew shirt right sides together at the sides.
Step 13: With your lace strip folded in half the long way ruffle along the raw edge. (so not along the fold but the other side)
Step 14: Pin lace ruffle in place around the arm opening. (as seen above) Sew in place.
Step 15: Sewing right sides together, sew the lace sleeves together at the bottom of the arm opening as shown above.
Step 16: Fold the bottom of the sleeve up (this should cover the seam) and top stitch in place. (as shown above)
Step 17: Your shirt is basically done but if it doesn’t fit comfortably over the head of your model like mine didn’t (or over your head if you are making this for yourself) Then cut a slit in the center of the back of the top. As shown above.
Step 18: Cut a small rectangle about 2 inches wide and 1 inch longer than your slit. Pin to the front side of the top covering the slit then sew along the back. Sew a rectangle around the slit as shown above. Then turn the rectangle around to the back and top stitch in place.
Step 19: Sew a hook and eye to the top of the opening.
And now you have a larger head opening.