If I could choose just one thing to design, and sew, it would be jackets. Seriously I am an outerwear fanatic. In fact my start in making patterns was with the Abbey Jacket, followed up by two other jackets and every year I like to design and make new ones for my kids, which come with new patterns. This year though, with Penny, and life going on I wasn’t able to make the pattern. I still made a jacket for Jude, and like with all jackets I go through about 5 prototypes before I settle on a final design. So I thought I would share prototype #1 as a free pattern for you.
It is roughly a size 7 some customizations were made for Jude like sleeve length for his lanky arms and such. While there are things I will defiantly tweak the outcome was a cute and wearable jacket. (full pattern will be available later this summer/fall)
Download FREE Pattern Here (sewn with a 3/8″ seam allowance)
Start by sewing the two back pieces right sides together. Open the seam flat and top stitch.
Then with right sides together sew the front and back pieces together at the shoulder.
Now for the hood. You will have a hood left, right and center.
With right sides together sew the center to the left and right pieces along the curved edge.
Repeat with the hood so you have two one outer one lining.
With right sides together sew the two hood pieces along the front edge.
Then turn the hood right side out and top stitch along the front edge.
With right sides together sew the hood to the outer layer neckline. Match up the center of the hood with the center of the back and work out to the edge. The hood will not meet the front edge.
With right sides together now sew the collar down to the neckline, it will go past the hood but still not to the very front.
Now for the welt pockets.
1. Place the facing right sides together with where you would like the pocket. (near the bottom side)
2. Sew around the rectangle opening and then cut a slit down the middle angling into the corners.
3. Push the facing through the opening and press flat to the back side.
4. Press the bottom side of the facing up over the opening, then fold it back so a fold covers the opening.
5. Edge stitch around the opening securing the fold in place over the opening.
6. On the back side, sew the pocket lining right sides together with the top of the pocket facing.
7. Then fold the lining in half so the lining matches up with the bottom of the facing. Sew through the lining and facing but NOT the front, sew the raw edges. Now your pocket should be complete.
Repeat with other pocket in the same placement.
For the shoulder tabs sew two right sides together. Clip the corners. Turn it right side out.
Place the shoulder tab over the shoulder seam slightly towards the front. Sew the tab in place.
With right sides together ease the sleeve into the sleeve curve. Sew in place. Repeat with other sleeve.
Then with right sides together sew from the sleeve edge to the armpit and then down the side.
Now your outer jacket is done. Repeat the steps sewing the lining the same only you will skip the hood, pockets, and shoulder tabs.
With right sides together place the lining and the outer jacket together. The hood will be in-between the layers you will want it to be out of the way. Then sew all along the edge leaving and opening in the front side so you can turn the jacket right side out. Clip all the corners and clip notches into the corners of the collar.
Turn the jacket right side out and press all the edges. Close the opening up.
With the front of the jacket overlapped mark the buttons up the front. I spaced min 2.5 inches apart and used 1 1/4″ buttons. Add button holes.
Hem sleeve by folding the outer layer down and folding the lining under, then fold the outer layer to meet the lining, sew the edge together.
Lastly add buttons on the one side to match the button holes and the other side simply sew buttons on for decoration.
There you have it a perfect little lined jacket, if you made it in wool it would be super warm. I made this one in a corduroy and chambray combo so it is perfect for spring, and our fairly mild winters, (never mind the beautiful snow storm ha!)
If you make the jacket I would love to see it! Upload a picture to our flickr group (link at top of the page)